Abstract

OCHOA, Cecilia Palacios  and  ULLAURI, Narcisa. Revalorización de métodos ancestrales de tinturado natural en las provincias de Loja y Azuay del sur de Ecuador. Siembra [online]. 2020, vol.7, n.1, pp.50-59. ISSN 2477-8850.  https://doi.org/10.29166/siembra.v7i1.1914.

The aim of this study was to assess the ancient techniques of natural dyeing to contribute to the viability of this important intangible cultural heritage. The locations where natural dyeing is still currently practiced were identified. The original techniques were used and optimized based on factors such as temperature, time, pH, mordant class and amount of plant material. 21 treatments were performed based on the methodology of the artisans and 50 treatments with variations of the most influential factors. The dyes were applied to alpaca fiber and sheep wool. 71 shades were obtained, ranging from intense yellow to pink, crimson, orange, and dark brown. The colors obtained from the application of the dye extracted from Brachyotum confertum, Junglans neotropica and Dactylopius coccus were classified as interesting tones due to the apparent intensity they presented. Control tests such as the strength of color in light, manual washing and rubbing showed that the dyeing with most of the species used had satisfactory results according to the grayscale assessment to measure color change.

Keywords : cultural-revalorization; natural dyeing; artisan techniques; handmade production.

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